
Oxford's great bookshop on Broad Street: a modest front door, and beneath it one of the largest bookrooms in the world.
Blackwell's has stood on Broad Street since 1879, opposite the Sheldonian and the Bodleian, and it is still the sort of shop that swallows an afternoon whole. Benjamin Henry Blackwell opened it as a single small room, and from the pavement it still looks deceptively modest; step inside and it keeps unfolding, floor after floor, until you find yourself standing at the top of a staircase looking down into the Norrington Room. There are around a quarter of a million books in the building, and it remains a family name that Oxford is rightly proud of.
The famous part is underground. Opened in 1966 and named after Sir Arthur Norrington of Trinity College, the Norrington Room is a single vast basement of more than ten thousand square feet, tunnelling out beneath Trinity's quad, and it held the Guinness record as the largest single room selling books anywhere in the world. Rows and rows of shelving fall away below you, and it is genuinely one of the loveliest spaces in the city, quiet and lamplit and endless. It is worth going in even if you have no intention of buying a thing, though you almost certainly will.
Four corners of it worth seeking out:
Oxford is around forty minutes from Well Cottage by car, and Broad Street sits right in the historic centre, so the park-and-ride is far and away the easiest approach; from there it is a short walk in past the Bodleian. Blackwell's pairs naturally with a wider day in the city, a coffee in the Covered Market, an hour at the Ashmolean, a wander round the colleges. Opening hours are on their website, and it is worth a glance before you set off, particularly on a Sunday.
“You go in for one paperback and surface an hour later from the Norrington Room with a small stack and no memory of the time passing. It is our favourite wet-afternoon shop in Oxford.”
All of this on the doorstep, and your own thatched cottage to come home to. Sleeps seven, less than a mile from Soho Farmhouse.