The George Inn, Barford St Michael

Barford St Michael

The village's one pub, and a good one

Barford St Michael has one church, one village hall and one pub, and The George is the one pub. It sits on the south bank of the River Swere, a thatched free house dating from 1672 that reopened after a careful refurbishment and now runs as pub, restaurant and small hotel all at once. From the cottage it is a short run down the lanes, close enough that we have driven over on a whim more than once and never regretted it. Low ceilings, worn flagstones and a proper fire in winter make it the kind of place you settle into rather than pass through.

What we like is that it manages two things most village pubs pick just one of. There is a relaxed bar with local ales on the hand pulls where you can turn up in walking boots, and there is a kitchen that takes food seriously, running from pub classics to a proper a la carte and, on Sundays, a traditional roast. The owner is a sommelier by background, and it shows: a glass-walled wine room holds a cellar that is far better than a village pub has any right to keep. You can order carefully or order simply, and both are treated with the same respect.

What we order here

The menu changes with the seasons, so treat this as the shape of a good evening rather than a fixed list. Whatever is on, the kitchen leans on local and sustainable sourcing and cooks it without fuss.

• The pub classicsHonest plates done properly: a good pie, fish and chips, a simply cooked steak. The safe, satisfying end of the menu when you just want a plate and a pint.
• Something from the a la carteWhen you feel like making an evening of it, the restaurant side steps up a gear, with more considered dishes and dietary options handled without drama.
• The Sunday roastA traditional roast that is worth planning the day around. Book ahead, walk it off along the Swere afterwards, and there is no better use of a lazy Sunday.
• A bottle from the wine roomAsk the staff to point you at the glass-walled cellar. It is the reason to linger over one more course, and the thing that sets The George apart from the pub down the next lane.

Timing your visit

The kitchen runs to set services rather than all-day food, so a little planning pays off, especially at weekends. As a rule the pub does lunch from around midday and dinner from the early evening, with the bar open longer either side; Sundays lean toward a long lunch rather than a late one. Hours do shift with the season, so it is always worth a quick check of the pub's own site or a phone call before you set off, and Sunday lunch in particular is worth booking. On a warm evening the garden by the river is the spot to aim for.

Making a night of it nearby

The George sits in good company. Deddington is just up the road with its market square and more places to eat, and there are two other pubs we send guests to when we want a change: The White Horse Inn at Duns Tew and The Killingworth Castle near Wootton. For the full picture, our guide to eating and drinking in the area runs from village locals to farm-to-table kitchens.

“The George is our go-to for a proper pub night. No theatrics, just good beer, honest food and a wine list that quietly outguns the room, all in a village local that has been getting it right for centuries.”

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Also nearby

• The White Horse Inn · Pub · Duns Tew
• The Killingworth Castle · Pub · Wootton
• Deddington Castle · Castle · nearby
• Deddington · Village guide